Drag wheels10/26/2022 ![]() The result is exactly the same as increasing horsepower by 1/30th more than the original power. If the car weighs 3000 and you cut 100 lbs, it is 100/3000 = 1/30th of the weight. 1 seconds depends on how much the car weighs and what horsepower it is. The energy stored is meaningless, except perhaps for bumps.Īs for the acceleration vs. The wheel only turns 1500 RPM or so, the weight center is only a few inches out from the hub, and you have the whole 1/4 mile to gradually spool it up. The wheel is too close to the center, spins way too slowly, and spools up too slow to make any special difference in rotating mass. This is a relatively simple physics problem, it is not complex. Bumps are a different matter, but acceleration is pretty much meaningless.īasically all you save is the static weight. The wheel spools up so slowly that the rotating mass is nearly meaningless for acceleration. I currently run M&H drag radials on the street, they have similar tread life to Mickey Thompsons but I'm going to get some Quick Time Pros for "special events".Ĭlick to expand.I pretty much agree with Calboy101 ![]() #Drag wheels manual#wheels probably aren't the best use of the money.īut of course if they look bitchin' plus you will go a little quicker, what the heck.Īlso like BlkSnake said, if you have a manual car the larger sidewalls will make it easier to hook up.īut drag radials are really hard to get consistent hooks on with manual cars, if you really want to hook hard get some Hoosier Quick Time Pros, they are DOT legal and some guys do drive them on the street but tread life will be short. If you are trying to as quick as you can with that $3,500. So just on that weight loss a rule of thumb is every 10 lbs is worth a 0.1 ET reduction so you could go 0.4 quicker from that weight loss. When moving from 17" to 15" wheels you'd see a bigger effect but I don't think it would be more than probably a total factor of 2, especially since the 15" tires weigh more (larger sidewalls) so dropping 20 lbs of wheel weight might be an effective weight loss of 40 lbs. So if you save 5 lbs per wheel, 20 lbs x 1.7 is effectively taking 34 lbs off the car. They accounted for the rotational inertia and even assuming most of the weight comes out from close to the outer diameter, every 1 lb reduction in the wheel weight was only equivalent to taking 1.7 of normal weight off the car. Somebody did an analysis on this focusing on the wheels only (not tires) and on 15" wheels. GN, the gain from weight reduction of the wheels isn't as much as I used to think it was, at least on the wheels alone. I need to allocate money in the correct places to button the car up, so I am trying to plan where the money is going ahead of time. My question is is it worth it for me to drop the $3,500+ on new wheels and tires this year or should I just run on what I have for now? Have any of you been in a similar scenario where you switched wheels and tires in a similar hp car? What were the gains that you saw? I have put a lot of money into the car this year and would really like to wait. When I do pull the trigger on new wheels, I am likely going with a 15x9 rear and a 17x4.5 front. These are obviously heavy and do not provide an optimal amount of sidewall. ![]() I have always had 17x9 mach 1 wheels on the rear with MT 275/60/17 drag radials and 17x8 mach's on front. This year I am hoping for somewhere in the ballpark of 700-750whp. Up until now, the car has made maybe 500 whp. ![]() I am just trying to decide if it is worth it for me to do it this year. One of the last things that I need to do is buy some wheels and tires. ![]() I am currently in the midst of completely redoing my street/strip stick shift fox. ![]()
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